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Fuel pump and sump modification

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I received the parts needed to repair the fuel hanger from Aeroflow. The parts I used are below:

  • AF413-06-05 – 90° Hose Barb 5/16″ to -6AN
  • AF924-06 – Bulkhead Nut -6AN
  • AF843-05 – 90 DEGREE 5/16″ BARB BOTH ENDS
  • AF411-06-05 – Straight Hose Barb 5/16″ to -6AN Female
  • AF178-06 – Viton Rubber O-Rings -6AN
  • AF533-06 – 90° Full Flow AN Bulkhead -6AN

I removed the damage pipe sections, and using a step drill bit enlarged the hole so the 90 degree bulkhead fitting would fit. It’s a bit bulky compared to the original setup but should still fit in the tank easily.

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The hanger still fits inside the tank fine. the 90 degree barb fitting is sitting higher that the original outlet but there should be enough space between the tank and the chassis for everything to fit.

After thoroughly cleaning off the aluminium dust from the sump I put it back on the engine. ITB’s have been removed so they aren’t damaged during the engine installation.

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Now that the sump is back on and free from touching the steering rack the engine is going back in the car for the final time. Once the gearbox is bolted to the motor, I can see if there will be any clearance issues with the transmission tunnel.

I can also check which gearbox crossmember, if any, will line up with the holes on the chassis. The left crossmember is the SXE10 Altezza one, SA63 Celica on the right.

The SA63 member will probably be the best fit, as it already lines up on the chassis and I can elongate the holes in the centre if i need to. My shifter location measurements are not very accurate so I’ll be able to see where it sits, and if it needs to be changed.

Fitted the new TODA flywheel and clutch kit, the flywheel bolts are Toyota 90105-12312, same as for the original 3SGE dual mass flywheel.

The bracket bolted on top of the flywheel is an SQ Engineering flywheel locking tool. The engine is being held steady by the crane, but is still moving back and forth so the locking tool is an easier solution than locking the crank with a prybar and hoping the engine doesn’t move.

Some sources online say the flywheel bolt should be torqued to 86nm. The correct torque is actually 107NM, torqued in three stages in the order shown on the left.

Now that the flywheel is on, I can start fitting the gearbox

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