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Engine Installation

Now that the engine and transmission are bolted up to the correct position I can start put everything back into the engine bay. Apart from the nose being shorter, the engine bay dimensions for the Celica are the same as a MA61 Supra, which came with a 2.8 Litre 6 cyl 5M engine. Compared to the Altezza engine bay, I have plenty more room to make everything fit.

The clutch master is clear of the rear velocity stack, but is in the way of the air filter. I can raise the reservoir using some barb fittings and a hose section so that it will clear the air filter.There is also enough room for the brake master once it’s all together

Fitted the air filter, brake master and radiator. The water outlet on the engine and the radiator inlet are only approx 100mm away from each other and they do not line up. I’ll need a hose with a very tight S bend to join them together, I haven’t been able to find any standard hoses that will fit so I may need to join two 90 degree hoses together. There is enough clearance between the front of the engine and the radiator to fit the thermo fan. The battery and overflow bottle can stay in their original position, and the power steering reservoir has been moved to the same side as the pump.

The bonnet is able to close fully without the velocity stacks or air filter touching so no modifications or height adjustment is needed. The engine is sitting higher than the original single cam 2S-C, which is why I’m using a foam filter on the ITB’s instead of a solid air box. If I want to run an air box or strut brace I’ll have to look at modifying the mounts or lowering the crossmember.

Fitted the starter motor. I removed an unneeded mounting bracket that was on the side of it as it was really close to the steering column. The starter just clears the SA63 engine mount with around 8mm to spare.

The flange on the exhaust manifold is only a few mm from the engine mount which means the manifold needs to be removed from the engine to bolt up the exhaust pipe. The other option is to run aftermarket exhaust headers, but I need to confirm the dimensions in case they also hit the engine mount.

The only firewall clearance issue is with the SARD fuel pressure regulator, there is not enough room to screw on the vacuum fitting. By removing the fuel rail, fitting the FPR then reattaching the fuel rail to the engine this can be avoided.

I’m still looking for the best place to route the fuel line, I will move the banjo fitting to the front of the fuel rail if space permits. The hard line for the fuel return is not in a good spot, I am going to cut and flare it at the indicated spot on the firewall so that it can be plumbed directly from the fuel pressure reg.

The firewall clearance near the heater is better than I expected which is good because plumbing it up will be messy as the the heater box outlet is facing the wrong way. I am using the original SA63 heater tap which will be fed by the 14mm outlet on the new water housing. The top outlet on the heater will be connected to the return pipe.

I was able to put something together with some spare hoses and the bypass pipe from the spare engine. I will replace the hoses and cut the bracket for the bypass pipe, as the return hose is sitting too high and will trap air. Once i sort out the radiator piping the cooling system will be complete


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2 thoughts on “Engine Installation Leave a comment

    • Hi Colin,
      I am not currently using spacers, however the clearance between the velocity stacks and the bonnet is pretty tight. If this becomes an issue I will look at using spacers for better clearance.

      Like

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